A Pilgrimage to Walton’s Mountain

For my 50th birthday this year, I made a list. It’s not a bucket list. It’s not a list of things I want. It’s a list of things to do, adventures to experience, and places to explore this year. It’s a list of short day trips to get me out of the house and exploring my environment.

This month, our trip took us on a pilgrimage to Walton’s Mountain, otherwise known as Schuyler, Virginia.

The Walton Museum is located in a repurposed school building off of Route 6 in Schuyler. The building itself is interesting; Earl Hamner, Jr., the author of the original Waltons stories, lived down the block just a bit and attended the elementary school.

Earl Hamner’s house, author of the Walton’s and inspiration for the house set in the show.

The school had two doors flanking a central open auditorium. I wondered if boys entered on one side and girls on the other. Or perhaps one size was for the younger children and the other, older students?

Inside, the old school had been turned into a celebration of all things Walton. The old classrooms had been made into facsimiles of John-Boy’s bedroom, the Waltons’ kitchen and living room, Ike’s Store (actually, the gift shop), and the Baldwin sister’s home. The pony cart used in episodes with Waltons cousin Martha Corinne, a rough and tumble mountain woman who always reminded me of Baba Yaga the witch of Russian folklore, is authentic and stands in its own honored place.

There’s also a room of merchandise from the show, a movie documentary with the actors, and a room full of donated military equipment from the local community. The middle section, the auditorium, is used as a community center.

While the entrance fee was a little steep ($10) the town of Schuyler probably has little other income now. Only one soapstone quarry is left. The new Quarry Garden at Schuyler, a privately owned home recently opened for garden tours, offers a fun destination, but probably doesn’t generate any job opportunities.

One of the old soapstone quarries now doubles as a swimming hole for local teens.

During the time when Mr. Hamner lived in the white clapboard home down the road with his seven siblings and parents, the soapstone quarry about a mile down the lane from his house was a bustling center of commerce. Over 7,000 people lived in Schuyler. Now, like so many sleepy little towns across America, not much is left except lovely fading old homes, a few tourist spots, shady lanes, and history.

We didn’t go into the Hamner house (it was another $6 fee) but I did take pictures outside. It really does look like the Waltons’ house on the television show, except it is missing the two side wings. I can’t imagine eight kids squashed into that house. We were five kids in a house about the same size and it was tight!

One thing that struck me about our visit was the number of visitors to the museum. One couple was on vacation from England and mentioned they had driven four hours out of their way just to see the museum! There were at least several dozen other couples, mostly older folks, visiting the museum.

The conversations, murmured in old school hallways and classrooms, fascinated me. People love the Waltons television show for so many reasons. The most important reason, I think, is what someone said in the documentary film shown in the museum.

I’m paraphrasing, but the gist is this: the Waltons celebrates the nobility of the common man. It celebrates the average person, the ups and downs of the typical American family for whom love, faith, family, and fortitude go hand in hand.

In an age when we are bombarded with violent television shows and every kind of depravity trotted out for entertainment, the Waltons and similar shows remind us that there are good, kind, gentle and hard working people just like us out there. They are content with their lives; sometimes they chafe a bit, as in the episode when Olivia takes painting lessons or buys a bicycle so she feels young again. But for the most part, the daily joys of life, the care of family and home, satisfied.

We’ve really forgotten this, and sometimes as a society, we manage to remember it. We suddenly like shows on Netflix about baking or organizing; we celebrate canning or homesteading, or sewing. Knitting comes back into vogue. But always, chafing behind the slow, quiet comforts of life is the glittery show of other things that lure us away from what is important.

One of the things I love at our church’s Easter Vigil is the renewal of baptismal promises. Every year, this line strikes me: “Do you reject Satan and all his works? Do you reject the glamor of evil?”

The glamor of evil. That’s what most entertainment today makes me think of: the glamor of evil. Evil always looks glamorous, doesn’t it? The excitement of car chases, of police shows, of murder, rape and other horrendous crimes trotted out for us on television looks glamorous. Models, actresses, actors, their lives also seem glamorous. Don’t get me started on those silly ‘reality shows’ that are anything but real life.

Real life is Grandma peeling potatoes in the kitchen, Olivia thumping an iron on a pinafore dress so Erin can look presentable to go to a dance, Elizabeth crying because her kitten died. Real life is John Walton patching the truck tires to make them last and John-Boy reading late at night so he can get into college but still rising at dawn on a weekend to go with his family fruit picking to make some money (and bite into his mother’s yummy pies later). Real life is the church on Sunday, picnics by Drusilla’s pond, hitching Blue the mule to the pony cart and snow storms that threaten to engulf the mountain.

A recreation of the Walton family kitchen. I wanted to pull up a chair and dig into some home cooking!

Real life is love, lived in action, in an everyman family that rejects the glamour of evil for the sanctity of family life.

The Waltons debuted in 1972, poised against The Mod Squad, an action show with hip detectives and racing stuff, and The Flip Wilson Show, a funny comedian. Somehow, someway, they rose to the top. Why? Because something in the family dynamic, the true ‘reality show’ of life, captured the public like nothing before.

Soon we had Little House on the Prairie and a mini golden age of television in the 1970s with funny, clean comedies (Laverne & Shirley, Happy Days), and funny but thought-provoking shows like M*A*S*H and All in the Family.

But nothing in my mind surpasses the homespun charm, the reality of the Waltons.

 

P.S. There is no Waltons Mountain in Virginia! Earl Hamner loosely based that on a mountain his uncle owned. Schuyler is hilly, but not mountainous.

The Jewels in Our Midst: In Praise of Local Arts and Culture

I don’t know what impetus pushed me out the door last night. Boredom, the arch-enemy of creativity, crept into my work, and thus I found myself seeking any excuse to drive from my farm into town.

I love my farm. I love the life that I live, the quiet, the solitude, the peace. But six days out of seven, it’s just my husband, my cats, and myself. Social media helps break the isolation, a little. However, all the funny memes, status updates, and pictures of friends cannot suffice forever.

A good friend of mine, a professor back in New York and one of my mentors, accepted a position at a university in a rural area of Pennsylvania. This was a woman with season tickets to Lincoln Center, who took me to one of my first performances at that revered institution when I turned 20. I remember how she fretted about her move. It wasn’t the lack of services or moving to a new place that bothered her: it was her worry that she wouldn’t find “culture” as she called it in farm country.

She moved and found to her delight that culture wasn’t far away at all. There was Philadelphia only an hour’s drive away and the Philadephia Orchestra; there were concerts, lectures, and art exhibits on the university campus and at nearby museums.

I didn’t worry quite as much as my friend did about finding live performances and ‘culture.’ I love listening to classical music, but I often prefer my favorite recordings and the radio to live concerts. I enjoy Medici TV, the arts streaming video service, and I get my fill of ballet and opera there.

But sometimes, the radio just doesn’t satisfy. Neither does video. The main problem with both is that we lock ourselves into a cultural bubble. I listen endlessly to my favorites: Mussorgsky, Beethoven, Bach, Jenkins, Einaudi, Dvorak. I discover nothing new.

The music director at my church, Dr. Lisa Kinzer, is also the chair of the local university’s music department, and we are blessed to have a large, interesting, and culturally diverse university smack in the middle of our rural area. She mentioned briefly a week or two ago that she would be performing in the faculty spring recital, and yesterday, a reminder popped up on Facebook (before it crashed and took the world’s outrage with it) (I survived the Facebook outage of 2019!).

So, on the spur of the moment, feeling restless and vaguely unsettled, I mumbled to my husband that I’d decided to go to the concert. I hopped into my car and found myself searching for a parking spot at Longwood University. Finding parking at Longwood is a favorite local sport, sort of like a treasure hunt but on wheels. For a large and wonderful university, it lacks even a single guest visitor spot, and I couldn’t figure out if the parking garage was open or closed.

I finally tucked my car into a spot that may or may not have been a visitor spot, crossed my fingers, and hiked to the campus.

I made my way to the Wygal Building, where I had taken a few voice lessons back in 2016 with one of the professors. I sing with my church choir and love to sing. I’ve enjoyed choral singing as a hobby since my teens, and those lessons were a gift to myself. And probably to my congregation, who may be thankful that I improved, even if ever so slightly.

Anyway, I digress.

I found a seat in the recital hall and waited. I noticed that 99% of the audience was students and the remaining adults in the concert hall, professors and faculty at the university. The concert included three composers I was familiar with: Shostakovich, Hindemith, and Menotti.

But what a gift! The world premiere of a new work by one of the professors, Dr. Gordon Ring. Normally, I dislike modern compositions, but his “Whistler” Portraits for Solo Piano were outstanding. A hint of Debussy colored the last piece – I heard chord progressions similar to La Cathédrale engloutie

concert
Dr. Lisa Kinzer playing the premiere of Gordon Ring’s “Whistler Portraits for Solo Piano.”

Watching the concentration on my friend’s face as she played Ring’s “The Gold Scab” reminded me of why I love live performances and what a treasure we have in Longwood University’s music department. Here I was, seated in a small theater, with astonishingly talented musicians introducing me to new pieces.

Not only was my friend, the pianist, a delight, but all of the musicians. The clarinet soloist. The violinist Naima Burrs– I could write pages about her playing. I typically dislike the violin but she made me love it. Her playing with sublime, sweet, and exuberant, especially in the Peter Schickele piece “Serenade for Three.”

The surprise of the evening was my “discovery” of the well-known modern composer Arvo Part. Part is an Estonia composer who invented tintinnabuli, a form of music inspired by Gregorian chant. The lights dimmed, and as the chords droned and chanted with clarinet, saxophone, and organ, a video projected onto the screen above the stage. Scenes of stars, outerspace flowed by, and then…a butterfly. I was mesmerized by the tiny butterfly amidst the stars of space. I felt hypnotized, wonderfully freed by the droning, strange music.

I loved it.

I would never have discovered that I loved this strange, new-to-me music if I had not picked myself up off the coach, switched off my Netflix binge of Russian Dolls, and took the time to leave my house for a change.

A few miles away from the concert hall, seeders churn fields into life. Logging continues apace on tracts of loblolly pine that roll into enormous fields filled with black Angus cattle. Newborn calves nurse from patient mamas. Pickup trucks, tractors, and hay bales abound.

In the midst of this rural life, in the middle of what many would deem “nowhere”, I found incredible cultural richness. You do not need to be in the middle of one of the great cities of the world to enjoy the finest music, art, theater, and dance. Locally, one may find such treasures whether you are in Philadelphia or Farmville.

Get out. Get to a concert, a performance, an exhibit. Explore local arts and culture!

 

 

Goodbye, Peter Tork

Today, the world learned of the passing of Peter Tork. The oldest member of the Monkees, Tork was the sad, puppy-dog-eyed member of the group clowning around in the background of many shots. He had sandy brown hair that seemed to fall over his eyes continually. I imagine teenage girls, sighing over the Monkees, wishing they could be the one to brush back that hair.

I remarked to a friend, “It feels like a bit of my childhood just slipped away,” but that’s not entirely accurate. It feels more like it cleaved, the way rocks or glaciers do, a giant shelf sliced and sliding into the endless ocean of time.

A big chunk of my childhood played out against the soundtrack of The Monkees’ albums.

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